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Wintering Wisely
Under
most circumstances harsh winters are more uncomfortable for horse
owners than for the horses themselves. When living with
seniors, though, it is prudent to practice a little more diligence
in snow and ice season. We hope you find these tips useful
(and that you will share with us any others you've found helpful in
wintering your elders wisely!)
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Water - water, water, water!
Please remember that horses consuming large amounts of hay will
need to drink more water than they do when on pasture.
The moisture content of pasture grass is approximately 65-75%,
while that of hay is only 8-10%.
It is essential that the water
source be kept as free of ice as possible. Not all horses
will break through a layer of ice to access the water below.
Yes, "wild" horses learn to do that as they grow up around other
horses that know outdoor survival techniques. Your horse,
however, is not a "wild" creature and may not know how to get to
the water under that hard surface. There are several ways to
deal with icy water:
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One method is to break through
and remove ice from the surface. If the ice is merely
a thin "skin," a kitchen strainer works fine on small tanks
and buckets. Thicker ice or a larger tank requires a
larger removal tool. Find an old feed or water bucket and
use a 3/4 inch drill bit to drill holes all over the bucket,
making your own big strainer. After breaking the ice
up with a hammer, simply dip the ice pieces out of the tank.
CAUTION: Keep the bucket over the tank until the water
drains out! (You will probably not make that mistake
twice unless you enjoy working in wet clothes!) Pile
the ice pieces where the horse will not have to walk over
them to approach the tank. Check tanks and buckets for
ice several times during the day.
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A second option is to use tank
or bucket heaters to keep the water temperature above
freezing. There are several types available. Whichever
type you choose, remember to keep all electrical cords out
of reach of the horses. In addition, please use outlets
safely....do not prop open waterproof covers on outdoor
outlets, allowing water into the circuit.
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If your horses' normal water
source is a natural source, such as a pond or stream,
consider using a tank which is more easily maintained in
frigid temperatures.
Tank or bucket location is another
important thing to consider. Winter means less algae
growth, but water tanks still must be cleaned regularly. Less
algae growth means little when Toothless Wonders drop wads of
hay into the water and the heater brews a strong hay tea. When
relocating a tank for the winter, be sure to consider drainage
in the new site. If you dump a tank for cleaning and the
water freezes before it drains away or soaks into frozen
ground, the horses may be hesitant to walk up to the tank.
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Hay - Roughage is an
essential ingredient in any horse's diet, playing a very
important role in maintaining gastrointestinal health.
During the winter, hay must be provided to replace pasture grass
that has gone dormant. But, winter hay is more than just a
replacement for grass. Metabolizing hay produces more body heat
in the horse than does the metabolism of grains and other
concentrates. When the outdoor temperatures drop lower,
more hay will be consumed in most cases.
Dentally challenged seniors need
special consideration when pasture is unavailable. Some
marginally toothed horses can chew tender grass shoots but are
unable to eat chewy, stemmy hay. In such cases, a
commercial chopped forage may work. Wetting the forage may
further aid in swallowing, but it also may create problems of
its own. Wet forage will freeze into a solid block in cold
temperatures, so serving sizes must be no larger than the horse
can eat at one "sitting." A change in hay may make a
difference in how well the horse can eat. A very leafy
second or third cutting hay can sometimes be chewed when a
stemmy first cutting will be wadded and spit out.
A final word on hay is QUALITY.
Don't skimp on quality when it comes to this very important
ingredient in gut health, nutrition and overall well-being.
It was once thought that most winter colic episodes were caused
by insufficient water intake. Researchers recently added
poor quality roughage to the list of major culprits. When you
feed poor quality hay to a horse that cannot chew well in the
best of circumstances, and that may have a less than efficient
digestive tract, you are tempting fate. Please don't take
that risk.
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Feed - Some younger horses
are able to maintain good health and weight on forages (grass
and hay) alone. That is not the case, however, for most
senior horses, especially those with dental trouble. Most
elders are fed a senior feed throughout the year. Most
will also need larger amounts of feed in winter since
maintaining normal body temperature requires more calories than
are needed in warm weather. Some will need a larger
increase, in proportion to summer rations, than others.
Monitor the horse's weight closely and make adjustments
accordingly. Because winter coats often hide subtle
changes in body condition, feel for changes over the
ribs, hips, withers and shoulders rather than depending on
general appearance. When feed intake must be increased
significantly for the winter, consider adding another meal to
the daily routine rather than trying to feed enormous amounts
less often. If the horse is not already eating his senior
ration as a mash, consider soaking. Soaking is yet another
way to add to overall water intake.
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Shelter - Rainproof,
windproof shelter is important for domestic horses' well-being
in winter. Trees, especially trees with no leaves, just
won't do the trick. Most horses can tolerate rain. Most
horses can tolerate moderate wind. But a wet horse in a
cold wind can lose body heat at an alarming rate. This is
especially true of elders who may not be able to regulate their
body temperatures as efficiently as younger horses. Free access
to a three sided shed or the interior of a safe barn is
ideal. Keeping the horse in a stall during bad weather is
another option, but the ability to move about in a shed will
help keep body temperatures up. A blanket may be useful
during times of confinement when lower activity levels mean less
internal heat production. (Remember, though, that prolonged
confinement can contribute to respiratory problems and decreased
gut motility.)
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Footing - Icy ground can be a
winter nightmare for both you and your horse. First and
foremost, be extremely careful and keep yourself safe. If
you take a bad spill, not only might you be seriously injured,
but you will also not be able to care for the horses, and
everybody will suffer.
No matter how careful you are, you
will likely end up with ice in the area of a water tank.
One way to combat this problem is to move the tank to a well
drained area. If you are in a climate where the daytime
temperatures routinely climb above the freezing point, empty and
clean tanks early in the day. Doing so will allow water to
drain away or dry somewhat before the temperature drops again
that night.
If there is no way to avoid ice
accumulation in certain areas, sprinkle the area with sand, fine
gravel, old bedding or anything else that will help provide
traction. One thing to avoid is cat litter. Clay cat
litter will absorb a certain amount of moisture, then,
especially in high traffic areas, begins to break down into a
slimy clay layer that makes things worse rather than better.
If you must lead a horse over
icy ground, give him his head, plenty of loose lead, and let him
choose his own path. Remember that elders are less agile than
they once were and may need a little more time to get where you
are asking them to go.
Finally, whether walking on snow,
ice or mud, maintaining balance on slippery ground is hard work.
This is especially true in horses that have pre-existing
unsoundnesses such as arthritis. They will want to rest
more often and you may need to speak with your vet about
adjustments in pain management until the footing improves.
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Snowballs! - No, not the kind
you throw at your brother. The kind that form on the
bottom of horses' feet. The shape and health of a horses'
feet and hooves, and the texture of the snow, are big factors in
how much of a problem he will have with snow accumulation.
Check you horses' feet often any time there is snow on the
ground. Some horses gather so much snow in their feet that
their hooves do not touch the ground at all. Under certain
conditions, the weight of the horse will compress the snow into
an ice ball, making a dangerous situation a very
dangerous situation. Snowballs will usually pop right out
of the foot with a hoof pick. To prevent snow
accumulation, some horse owners coat the soles with petroleum
jelly, or cooking spray. Results sound mixed. Try it
and see what happens, but do NOT use anything that will make the
hoof itself more slippery. (NOTE: In general, shod horses will
have a greater tendency to pick up snowballs than barefoot
horses.)
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Blanketing - As with younger
horses, elders vary greatly in the need for a blanket.
Don't be tempted to use a blanket based solely on "old age."
Many equine elders grow very generous winter coats.
Keeping them clean and fluffy will ensure the coats maintain
maximum insulating capabilities. Monitor for shivering.
A horse can literally lose several pounds during a night of
shivering. When blanketing is required, avoid the
temptation to put the blanket on and leave it on until spring.
Use it only when needed. If the horse is one with a heavy
coat, one or two warm days can cause sweating under the blanket,
and lead to additional problems.
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Getting snowed upon - If you
step outside one morning and see four inches of snow perched on
your horses back, don't panic. The fact that the snow is
not melting proves that the horse's coat is an efficient layer
of insulation between his body heat and the layer of snow.
It is a good idea, though, to brush the snow off before the
temperature rises above freezing. Once the snow begins to
melt, it will make the horse wet. Wet + cold = NOT
a Good Thing.
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Plan ahead -- With today's
weather forecasting technology, we usually know of a winter
storm well before it arrives. Keep feed, hay and bedding
well stocked. Do not run out just before a storm and buy
just enough to get you through the storm's predicted lifespan.
First, the storm may last longer than expected. Second,
maybe (key word is "maybe") you can get to the feed store the
moment the snow stops falling, but can the feed distributor get
there? If you depend on well water and don't have a
generator, fill your water tanks to the brim in case of a power
outage. Fill extra tanks and buckets if you have them.
(Keep the buckets in the house to prevent freezing.)
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Heat - Heat lamps and space
heaters in the barn.
DON'T.
And......chin up! Spring will be
here soon!
NOTE:
Material presented by
Traveller's Rest Equine Elders Sanctuary on equineelders.org or in any
other manner is for information purposes only. It is in no way
intended to replace the services or advice of your veterinarian. |
